DESTINATION GAMBIA
On this page: A Brief History
Economy
People and Culture
Language
Wildlife
Guide to Gambia
A Brief History
There is evidence of human settlements in The Gambia dating back as far as 500 AD, while stone tools and pottery pieces dating back to 2000BC have been found in the West African region, indicating even earlier settlements. Much of The Gambia’s cultural heritage can be traced to the great African trading kingdoms that flourished along the middle Niger River basin during the time of Europe’s Middle Ages.
While the Serahule rulers travelled and traded in the area during the 10th century, the Ghana Empire (5th-12th centuries AD) and the Mandinka kingdom of Mali (13th-15th centuries AD) were of particular importance in The Gambia’s early history. In fact, the Mandinkas came to dominate the region during the expansion of the Mali Empire in the 13th century. All these kingdoms were renowned for the splendour and wealth that resulted from their trans-Saharan trading activities with the Berbers and Muslim Arabs of North Africa. Political upheaval and encroaching drought brought other ethnic groups into the area including Wolof and Fulani pastoralists.
The exchange of gold, ivory, and slaves from the western woodlands and southern rainforests, for salt, dates, and metalwork from the north was a dominant force in West Africa during this time. Trade, political conquest, and the expansion of the Sahara desert were further factors causing a southern and western migration of different ethnic groups from the Niger River basin into The Gambia and surrounding region.
By the 16th century, Portuguese slave traders and gold seekers had established themselves along the West African coast and river mouths, drastically changing the character of the trans-Saharan trade. The French and English who competed for political and commercial dominance in the region during the 17th and 18th centuries soon followed the Portuguese.
In 1808, slave trading was abolished throughout the British Empire, and the British tried unsuccessfully to end the slave trade in The Gambia. They established the military post of Bathurst (now Banjul) in 1816. In the ensuing years, Banjul was at times under the jurisdiction of the British Governor General in Sierra Leone.
In 1889, The Gambia became a crown colony, and the following year France and Britain drew the boundaries between Senegal (by then a French colony) and The Gambia. The Gambia received its own executive and legislative councils in 1901 and gradually progressed toward self-government. A 1906 ordinance abolished slavery.
Following general elections in 1962, full internal self-governance was granted in the following year. The Gambia achieved independence on February 18, 1965 as a constitutional monarchy within the Commonwealth, and in 1970 The Gambia became a fully independent republic with former Prime Minister Dawda Jawara becoming the nation's first president.
Until a military coup in July 1994, led by the Armed Forces Provisional Ruling Council (AFPRC, now the APRC - Alliance for Patriotic Reorientation and Construction), The Gambia was led by President Jawara who had been in office for nearly 30 years. Lieutenant Yahya A.J.J. Jammeh, chairman of the AFPRC, now became head of state. A new military government was formed, and Jammeh announced that he would remain in power at least until 1998. President Jammeh, who was re-elected with 53% of the vote, took the oath of the office again on December 21, 2001 and in the most recent September 2006 election.
Interesting...
Legend has it that Gambia’s borders were determined by measuring the extent of territory that could be defended by cannon-fire from a gunboat sailing up the river, thus The Gambia’s long, thin, and crooked shape.
Economy
The Gambia has a liberal, market-based economy and is characterized by traditional subsistence agriculture. This small nation is confronted with issues such as a high population density, very limited land space, few readily extractable resources, high illiteracy, and a single crop economy: groundnuts (peanuts), accounting for more than 80% of total exports.
Millets, sorghum, and rice are the staple food crops, however, because emphasis on groundnut cultivation has diverted production from staple crops, most foods must be imported. Livestock farming is also a contributor to the GDP (gross domestic product) at 4.4% seen by the herds of cattle, sheep, and goats that roam wherever they can. Fishing accounts for 1.8% of the GDP.
Re-export trade, an important factor to Gambia's economy (though it has been in decline over the last decade or so), is built up around the ocean port in Banjul, with low import duties and minimal administrative procedures. The main export partners to The Gambia are India, the UK, Indonesia, Senegal, and Belgium. Import commodities include foodstuffs, fuel, machinery, and transport equipment, with China, Senegal, Cote d’Ivoire, Brazil, the US, the UK, and the Netherlands for the main import partners to The Gambia.
To overcome the obstacles to self-sufficient and economic growth, the Government of The Gambia is pursuing policies to diversify the economy through the development of rice and maize (corn) for domestic consumption and cotton and sesame as additional export crops.
The government is also encouraging the further development of its fishing and tourist industries, tourism being the major industry in The Gambia, contributing at least 12% to the GDP. In addition, new hospitals and schools, and the improvement of essential infrastructure such as roads and utilities are continuing to add to the positive growth of economic activity in The Gambia.
Even a short drive down Kairaba avenue (a main business strip in the Kombos area) can show how new shops are constantly cropping up, while there is also a great increase in home construction in the suburban areas. Bilateral assistance continues to be given by countries such as the US, the UK, Germany, Sweden, Taiwan, and Kuwait, and the future is looking bright for The Gambia.
People and Culture
A wide variety of ethnic groups live in The Gambia, each preserving its own language and traditions with minimal intertribal friction. The Mandinka are the largest ethnic group with 42% of the population, followed by the Fula (18%), the Wolof (16%), the Jola (10%), and the Serahule (9%). The Sere, Aku, and Manjago also live in The Gambia but in smaller numbers. Approximately 30,000 non-Africans live in The Gambia, including about 20,000 Europeans and over 5,000 people of Lebanese origin.
Recent immigrants to The Gambia include those of Senegal, Ghana, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, Liberia, Sierra Leone, and the Mauritanians who tend to run many shops in Banjul and throughout The Gambia. Muslims constitute more than 90% of the population while Christians of various denominations account for most of the remainder. Gambians officially observe the holidays of both religions and practice religious tolerance.
More than 70% of Gambians live in rural villages, although more and more young people come to the capital in search of work and education. While urban migration, development projects, and modernization are bringing more Gambians into contact with Western habits and values, the traditional emphasis on the extended family, as well as indigenous forms of dress and celebration remain integral parts of everyday life.
The Lebanese Community
There is a very large community of Lebanese in The Gambia, many of which have been in West Africa for generations. The Lebanese are known in the world for their entrepreneurial spirit (as are the people from India of which many also reside in The Gambia) and therefore they run many of the local businesses, including shops, restaurants, hotels, and service providers. However, though the Lebanese are aiding the local economy and creating employment for many Gambians, unfortunately friction between the two does at times exist.
Variations in culture
In The Gambia…
- Dogs and cats are not kept as pets.
- It’s often cats, not dogs, that beg for food at the table of a restaurant.
- Cigarettes are less then US$1 per pack, yet rice, being a staple food, is expensive, not to mention mostly imported.
- The thighs are the most erotic part of a women’s body, not the breasts.
- Friday is ‘dress your best’ day rather than ‘casual’ day due to it being the Muslim holy day.
- The left hand and some water is used instead of toilet paper.
- Most Gambians live close to the Atlantic ocean or near the River Gambia, yet few have learned to swim.
- When at the end of a conversation on the phone, simply hanging up is sufficient, meaning "ok, talk to you later, bye."
- Answering anything in the negative is considered impolite as is direct eye contact to someone of higher importance.
- "He" and "she" are used interchangeably when referring to either males or females.
- Hissing "psssst" is a normal way of attracting a stranger's attention, also to waiters in a restaurant.
- It’s perfectly normal for Gambians to yell “toubab” to every tourist they see. “Toubab” meaning white person.
- Goats are absolutely everywhere, yet goat is never on the menu…or is it?
- Local oranges and bananas are ripe when they are green, as are grapefruits.
- Burping after a meal is a positive and welcome sign that the food was good.
- Finishing off your plate means you are still hungry and not yet satisfied.
- A bottle of beer costs the same if not less then the same size bottle of water at a restaurant, about US$1.20
- Breakfast (often the second one) is at 11am, lunch is at 3pm, and dinner is as late as 9 or 10pm.
- If a man wears no shirt, he is deemed crazy, even in 45°C weather.
- Everyone loves Celine Dion.
- Spam, in about a hundred different varieties, is available all over the country and is very, very popular.
- Many Gambian men have the first name Lamin as this is traditionally a name given to the first born son in various Gambian tribe families.
- Many Gambian women have the first name Fatou as this is traditionally a name given to the first born daughter in various Gambian tribe families.
Some superstitions and taboos
- Owls are seen as a sign of death (not many owls are left in The Gambia because of this superstition).
- Anything done on a Saturday will be repeated in the future so many Gambians avoid visiting the sick on this day.
- It is considered bad luck to buy or sell soap at night.
- If a pig crosses your path and you don't mention it to anyone, you will have good luck.
- Watching a Gambian eat is considered impolite and sometimes therefore the onlooker is invited to eat with them.
On 'borrowing'
Gambians like to ask others for things such as money and items to 'borrow', though what is actually meant is to take it and keep it without paying it back or giving the item back. Accusing a Gambian of stealing however is seen as extremely serious and rude so be careful and make sure you are certain of who the thief is and that no miscommunications occurred.
Language
English is the official language of The Gambia and most people around the coast and the tourist areas can speak it to some degree. However, the further upcountry you go, the fewer people you will find who can speak English. Learning a few sentences in some of the local languages (Mandinka, Wolof, Fula, Jola, etc.) will certainly be a good idea if one plans on visiting The Gambia, and Gambians will appreciate the effort taken. Gambians themselves certainly have an aptitude for languages as most know at least 3 or more.
Wolof is spoken mostly in the Kombos (coastal) areas whereas Mandinka is spoken more widely throughout the country. Jola is mostly spoken in the southern coastal parts of The Gambia as is French (Senegal's official language is French and therefore the closer the proximity to the Senegalese border, the more likely you will find people speaking French more than English).
Numerous spelling varieties exist for village names, people, and objects. English spelling for that matter is not consistent either and many spelling "varieties" can be seen on billboards, signs, newspapers, and even in locally published books. Words are also commonly repeated in conversation, for example, when asked "how are you", the answer is often "fine, fine", either in English or in a local language.
Universal Greeting
This universal greeting is in Arabic because most of the population in The Gambia are Muslims.This greeting is heard everywhere as an initial greeting, when walking into a shop, or even when hopping into a taxi.
The greeting is: Salaam malekum (‘peace be with you’), to which the response is: Malekum salaam (‘peace returns to you’).
Shaking hands (and even holding hands for a while, including men with men) is also a part of the greeting process. Women are not expected to shake hands when greeting people (notably in the rural villages, with other women, and with Muslim men), though many men will offer their hand. When greeting a group of people or someone from a distance, raising clasped hands will take the place of a handshake. If the hands are not clean or are somehow occupied, grasping the forearm of that person is also suitable when greeting.
Basic Mandinka words and phrases (spelt phonetically
| Yes | Haa |
| No | Hani |
| Good morning | Esama |
| How are you? | Kori tanante? (response: Tanante, meaning 'I am fine') |
| How is your family? | Sumoole? (response: Ebeje, meaning 'they are fine') |
| How is your work? | Do kwo be nadi? (common response: Domanding, domanding, meaning 'slowly, slowly') |
| Thank you | Abaraka |
| Thank you very much | Abaraka bake |
| Good | Abetiata |
| What is your name? | Etondi? |
| How much (money) is it? | Jelu le mu? |
| White person | Toubab |
| Black person | Mofingo |
| Go away! | Acha! |
Basic Wolof words and phrases (spelt phonetically)
| Yes | Wow |
| No | Deh-det |
| Good morning / How's the morning? | Naka subasi / Naka subasi? (response: Jamarek, meaning 'fine') |
| How are you? | Nanga def? (response: Jamarek, also meaning 'I am fine / I have peace only') |
| How's it going? (less formal) | Nakam? (response: Mangfi rek, meaning 'I am fine / I am here only') |
| How is your family? | Naka wa kerr? (response: Jamarek, also meaning 'they are fine / they have peace only') |
| How is your work? | Naka ligey bi? (response: Jamarek, meaning 'fine', or tutti, tutti, meaning 'small, small') |
| Thank you | Jerejef |
| Good | Baahna |
| What is your name? | Naka nga tudda? |
| How much (money) is it? | Nyaata la? |
| White person | Toubab |
| Black person | Nit ku nyuul |
Fula greeting
| How are you? | Nambata? (response: Jamtan, meaning ‘I am fine’) |
Jola greeting
| How are you? | Kassumai? (response: Kassumai kep, meaning ‘I am fine’) |
Serer greeting
| How are you? | Nafio? (response: Memehen, meaning ‘I am fine’) |
Wildlife
Most, if not all the large mammals no longer roam throughout the West African region, however, three species of monkey – Callithrix (or Green vervet), Patas, and the Western Red colobus – not to mention the Guinea baboons, are in abundance. The Gambian hippopotamus population remains well hidden upriver, though occasionally you may see a pair of large eyes peeking out of the water, hopefully from a safe distance! Bushbucks and duikers (small members of the antelope family) can sometimes be spotted in the depths of the forests, while leopards, hyenas, and the aardvark remain shy and in very few, if any numbers. The warthog (known locally as the 'bushpig') are common but are over-hunted by farmers and sportsmen alike.
The Gambia’s birdlife however, is amazingly diverse, and the 560+ bird species have relatively few predators, allowing the birds to thrive in high numbers. In addition, The Gambia is one of the first stops for many migratory birds. Species such as the Red-billed hornbill, Purple glossy starling, and the Grey plantain-eater are common throughout the country. The Intermediate egret, the Western reef heron, and the Marabou stork can easily be seen in many of the flooded rice fields, marshes, and creeks. And the Hooded vulture, various kingfisher varieties, and Senegalese parrots are seen in more places than you would expect.
Bird-watching tips
> Bring a pair of binoculars. A small, compact one can surely be purchased at a reasonable price at an outdoor supply store.
> Head out early. Most birds are active during the cooler hours of the day, notably in the early mornings.
> Try not to wear anything bright. Stick to khaki-coloured clothing and wear a hat.
> Download and print a species checklist on www.africanbirdclub.org
Crocodiles are seen in the River Gambia and creeks, particularly during the winter months when they can be observed basking in the sun on the river banks. Lizards are seen everywhere, especially the brightly coloured Rock agamas, as are frogs, though the latter come out mostly at night and during the rainy season. Larger lizards, including the Nile monitor which can grow up to two meters, are often spotted near the edges of the beach and hotel grounds.
Chameleons and geckos are in large numbers but are seen less often. Tortoises are still around and The Gambia has around 40 snake species, most of them being elusive and harmless. However, the Puff adder, the Spitting cobra, and the Green mambas, and some other species are dangerously venomous, though will only strike if threatened.
Spiders, scorpions, and various other invertebrates are less often encountered, though beautiful butterflies are numerous, with over 100 species, mostly seen during the rainy season.
Out in the sea, marine turtles, the Atlantic hump-backed dolphin, and the slightly larger Bottlenose dolphin can sometimes be spotted, and the West African manatee (sea cow), rarely seen, inhabits the coastal mangrove creeks. Tropical fish including barracuda, tigerfish, tarpon, catfish, blowfish, African red snapper, and bonga, plus small sharks and rays are numerous in Gambian ocean waters.
Termites
Throughout the country termite mounds can be seen in the fields, bush, and even alongside the roads. Characterized by large, 2 meter high or more sand coloured structures, the termite mounds resemble something like a sand castle, towers and all. Colonies of termites build these mini-kingdoms by binding soil with half-digested cellulose, the by-product of their diet of wood and straw.
Monitor lizards often lay their eggs inside the mounds as it acts as an incubator with perfectly controlled temperatures. In addition, the fine clay from the mounds makes good local water jars, keeping the water cool even during the hottest of days. If ever you find yourself lost in the bush of West Africa, the termite mound clay can be rubbed on the skin to act as a mosquito repellent and the location of the mounds likely indicate that there is a high water table, so start digging!
Plants
The Gambia lies within the Sahel, the semi-desert or savannah region that forms a broad band across Africa between the Sahara desert to the north and the forested countries of the south. Therefore the vegetation in the region consists mainly of low scrubs and well-dispersed trees such as the massive baobab, prickly acacia, and the impressive kapok, known as the silk-cotton tree. The palm is also a very common tree seen throughout the country, species include the date palm and the coconut palm.
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